15 Dutch Braid Styles for Girls

The step diagram shows three sections taken at the front hairline, with each outer strand passing under the middle strand and a small amount of new hair added before every cross, working down the centre of the head to the nape. This is the foundational Dutch braid and everything else in this article builds from it. The crossing direction is the entire technique — going under rather than over pushes the braid outward so it sits raised on the surface of the hair, which is why it reads as three-dimensional in a photograph where a French braid reads as flat. Start at the very front hairline rather than the crown if you want the braid to contain her fringe and face-framing pieces, which is usually the point. Add only small amounts of new hair with each cross; large additions create visible steps down the braid. Keep the additions equal on both sides, because uneven feeding is what makes a centre braid gradually drift to one side as you work down. Secure at the nape and continue as a plain braid if you want the length carried on.

The step diagram shows a centre part with a Dutch braid worked down each side, finishing behind each ear. This is the style most people mean by boxer braids and it is the most secure everyday option available for a child. Part down the centre and clip one side away entirely while you work the other, which prevents stray strands from the far side being caught in accidentally — the most common cause of a lopsided finish. Work each braid from the front hairline back along the side of the head rather than straight down, following the curve of the skull. Keep the tension firm but even.

The step diagram shows a Dutch braid from the hairline down to the crown, transitioning into a high ponytail. This is the compromise between braid security and morning speed. The woven section at the front contains every strand around her face, which is where hairstyles fail first, while the ponytail below takes seconds. It also produces a style that reads as considerably more elaborate than the two minutes it costs. Use two elastics stacked at the transition point, since that join takes the most strain during the day.

The step diagram shows a completed Dutch braid being widened by gently pulling at the outer edge of each crossing. Pancaking works far better on a Dutch braid than a French one, and that is the practical advantage of crossing under — because the braid sits raised, there is somewhere for the loops to expand into. On fine hair this transforms a thin, sparse-looking braid into something full and soft. Work from the bottom upward, pulling gently at the edges. Three or four passes is enough; overdoing it collapses the braid.

The step diagram shows a Dutch braid worked horizontally across the front hairline from one temple toward the other, gathering hair from below as it travels. This is a braided headband made properly, rather than a separate braid pinned across. Because it gathers hair as it goes, it contains the entire front section rather than just decorating it. Tilt her head toward the side you are working, which makes the angle considerably easier to manage. Finish behind the opposite ear and secure or pin.

The step diagram shows two Dutch braids running down each side, each finishing in a small low bun behind the ear. This combines the security of woven braids with the containment of buns, and nothing is loose at any point in the style. It is the strongest option for a long day, a tournament, or a swimming session. Braid each side to behind the ear, coil the remaining length into a small bun, and pin inward toward the scalp. The buns sit low enough not to interfere with most headgear.

The step diagram shows a deep side part with a single Dutch braid worked diagonally across the head from the heavy side toward the opposite ear. A diagonal Dutch braid is more flattering than a centred one on many head shapes because the asymmetry breaks up the face, and it reads as considerably more deliberate. Start at the deep part and work at an angle rather than straight back, gathering hair from both sides as you travel. Finish behind the opposite ear and continue as a plain braid over the shoulder.

The step diagram shows a Dutch braid worked from the front hairline back to the crown only, secured there, with all the hair below left down. This gives you the face-framing benefit of a braid while keeping most of the hair loose, which suits a child who dislikes everything being pulled back. Stop feeding new hair once you reach the crown and secure with a small elastic. Pancake the braided section slightly so it does not disappear against the loose hair below.

The step diagram shows two side Dutch braids brought up and across the back of the head, crossed over one another, and pinned above the opposite ears. This contains every strand completely and creates a woven look at the back that photographs well. Braid each side, then take the left braid across and pin behind the right ear, and the reverse. Cross the pins in an X at each anchor point, which grips several times more securely than pins pushed in parallel.

The step diagram shows a Dutch braid worked from one temple around the entire perimeter of the head, with the tail tucked under the start and pinned. This is the most secure and most formal Dutch style, containing every strand of front hair. Work with her head tilted toward the side you are braiding. When you return to the starting point, finish as a plain braid, tuck the tail underneath the crown, and pin with two crossed pins. Around seven minutes with practice — worth learning before an occasion rather than during one.

The step diagram shows the head divided into three sections with a Dutch braid worked down each, one centre and one on either side. Two braids in very thick hair produce braids heavy enough to swing and pull uncomfortably. Splitting into three distributes the weight and produces tighter, flatter braids that sit better against the head. It takes longer but is considerably more comfortable across a full day, which matters more than the extra few minutes.

The step diagram shows a Dutch braid with a grosgrain ribbon incorporated as part of one outer strand, appearing and disappearing along the length. Ribbon works particularly well in a Dutch braid because the raised structure displays it clearly, where a French braid partly hides it. Pin the ribbon at the starting point before you begin and treat it as part of one outer strand throughout. Grosgrain rather than satin, which slips out within the hour regardless of how tightly it is tied.

The step diagram shows the head tipped forward with a Dutch braid begun at the nape and worked upward toward the crown, finishing in a high bun. This upside-down version produces a braid that travels up the back of the head, which looks unusual and photographs well. Tip her head fully forward and braid upward, gathering hair as you go. It takes some getting used to because the direction feels wrong, but the technique is identical. Finish at the crown and coil the remaining length into a bun.

The step diagram shows two Dutch braids running down each side, joined together into a single ponytail at the nape. This produces a style that looks considerably more complex than two separate braids while actually being no harder. Braid each side to the nape, then gather both plus any remaining loose hair into one elastic. The result is secure at the front and tidy at the back, and it works well under a coat hood since nothing sits high on the head.

The step diagram shows the frequent errors grouped as a reference: crossing over instead of under, adding uneven amounts of hair, starting at the crown rather than the hairline, gripping the strands too tightly, and working with dry flyaway hair. Each has a specific consequence. Crossing over gives you a French braid, not a Dutch. Uneven feeding makes the braid drift off centre. Starting at the crown leaves the entire front hairline loose, which is what the braid was meant to contain. Gripping hard produces uneven tension rather than a tighter braid. And dry fine hair escapes the sections faster than you can work — a ten-second mist of water solves it entirely.