15 Braids for Girls From Simple to Special

The step diagram shows hair gathered into a low ponytail, divided into three equal sections, with the outer strands crossing over the middle in alternation down the length. This is the foundation of every other braid and it is worth doing properly rather than approximately, because the habits formed here carry into everything else. Divide into three genuinely equal sections — uneven sections produce a braid that looks lopsided no matter how neatly you work. Cross the right strand over the middle, then the left over the middle, and repeat, keeping your hands close to the braid rather than pulling the strands out wide. Working close is what keeps the tension even and the braid tight without pulling at her scalp. Keep a light grip; the most common beginner error is gripping hard, which produces a braid that is tight in places and loose in others. Secure with a seamless elastic wrapped one turn more than feels necessary, because braids loosen from the bottom upward across a day.

The step diagram shows three sections taken at the front hairline, with each outer strand crossing under the middle rather than over, and a small amount of new hair added to each outer strand before every cross. The under-crossing is the entire distinction between a Dutch and a French braid, and it produces a braid that sits raised on top of the hair rather than tucked into it — which is why Dutch braids photograph better and why they are what most people mean when they say boxer braids. Add only a small amount of new hair each time; large additions create visible steps in the braid. Keep the additions consistent in size on both sides or the braid will drift off centre as you work down.

The step diagram shows the same construction as a Dutch braid but with the outer strands crossing over the middle instead of under, producing a braid that sits flush with the surrounding hair. The French braid is the softer, more traditional of the two and it suits a formal occasion where a raised Dutch braid might read as sporty. It is also slightly easier for beginners, because crossing over follows the natural motion of a three-strand braid while crossing under requires unlearning that. Start at the crown rather than the hairline for a gentler line, and keep the sections small for a neater result.

The step diagram shows hair divided into two sections, with a small piece taken from the outer edge of one section and crossed over to join the other, alternating sides down the length. A fishtail looks considerably more intricate than a three-strand and is genuinely not much harder, though it takes about twice as long. The thickness of the pieces you cross over determines the look entirely — thin pieces produce a fine, woven texture while thick pieces produce something closer to a rope. Keep them consistent. Secure the end and then gently widen the braid by pulling at the edges if you want a softer, fuller finish.

The step diagram shows a centre part with a Dutch braid worked down each side, finishing behind each ear. This is the most secure style available for a child and the reason is that both braids are woven against the scalp with nothing loose to catch, tangle, or work free. It survives PE, recess, and a full school day essentially intact. Part down the centre and clip one side away while you work, which prevents strands from the other side being caught in accidentally. Keep the tension firm but not tight — a braid pulled hard at the hairline causes a headache by lunchtime and she will take it out herself.

The step diagram shows all the hair gathered to one side, low behind the ear, and worked into a three-strand braid falling forward over the shoulder. This is the fastest braid there is, because everything happens in front of you rather than behind her head, which roughly halves the working time. It is also the most comfortable for a long day or for sleeping, since nothing sits against the back of her head. Gather everything to one side and secure loosely at the nape first if she fidgets, which stops the gather slipping while you work.

The step diagram shows a Dutch braid worked from one temple around the front hairline and along the opposite side, with the tail tucked underneath and pinned. This is the most secure and most formal braid here, containing every strand of front hair. Work with the head tilted slightly toward the side you are braiding, which makes the angle considerably easier. When you reach the starting point, finish as a plain braid, tuck the tail under the crown, and pin with two pins crossed in an X — crossed pins grip several times more securely than parallel ones. Around seven minutes with practice.

The step diagram shows the top section from ear level upward worked into a single braid, with the lower hair left down. This gives you the security and the look of a braid while keeping most of the hair loose, which suits a child who dislikes everything being pulled back. Braid only the top section down to about the nape, then secure and let it sit over the loose hair. It also keeps hair off her face, which is what most braids are actually for.

The step diagram shows hair divided into two sections, each twisted individually in the same direction, then wrapped around each other in the opposite direction. A rope twist looks like a braid and takes roughly half the time, which makes it genuinely useful on a rushed morning. The critical detail is the opposing direction: twist each section clockwise, then wrap the two counterclockwise. Twisting both the same way produces something that unravels within the hour. Secure the end firmly, as rope twists loosen faster than true braids.

The step diagram shows a three-strand braid with a grosgrain ribbon incorporated as part of one strand, appearing and disappearing along the length. Weaving ribbon into a braid takes no longer than an ordinary braid and looks considerably more deliberate than ribbon tied at the end. Pin the ribbon at the top of the section before starting, then treat it as part of one strand. Grosgrain rather than satin — the ribbed weave grips against hair while satin slips out within an hour regardless of how tightly it is tied.

The step diagram shows hair divided into four sections, with the outer strands weaving over and under toward the centre in a repeating pattern. A four-strand braid produces a flatter, wider result that looks genuinely different from a three-strand and reads as considerably more intricate. The pattern is: take the far right strand over the one beside it, under the next, and over the last. Then repeat from the far left. It takes practice to make automatic but the sequence itself is simple. This suits a wedding, a recital, or a photograph rather than a school morning.

The step diagram shows a completed braid being gently widened by pulling at the outer edges of each crossing. Pancaking is a finishing technique rather than a braid, and it transforms how a braid looks on fine hair specifically — a thin braid that reads as sparse becomes full and soft. Work from the bottom upward, pulling gently at the edge of each loop. Three or four passes is enough; overdoing it makes the braid fall apart. Secure the braid first, then pancake, never the reverse.

The step diagram shows two side braids brought up across the back of the head, crossed over each other, and pinned above the opposite ears. This contains all the hair completely, which makes it excellent for a swimming day, a messy art session, or a windy playground. Braid each side plainly, then take the left braid up and across and pin behind the right ear, and the reverse. Cross the pins in an X at each anchoring point. Nothing hangs loose to catch or tangle.

The step diagram shows a small braid worked from one temple, taken across the top of the head, and pinned behind the opposite ear, with the rest of the hair down. This looks far more complicated than it is and takes about three minutes. It keeps every strand off her forehead while the hair stays down, which is a combination most styles cannot manage. Use two crossed pins to anchor it behind the ear. On fine hair, pancake the braid slightly before pinning so it does not disappear against the rest.

The step diagram shows the end of a braid being folded under and secured with a small pin pushed up into the braid body, rather than with an elastic. This is worth knowing for photographs and formal occasions, where a visible elastic at the end of an otherwise elegant braid is the detail that spoils it. Braid to about two inches from the end, fold the remaining tail under and inward, and push a pin up through the fold into the braid to hold it. It holds well enough for an evening, though it is not secure enough for a school day.